11 replies to this topic

[Tom Rogers]

I am trying to put a winder stair in a house and I want to have three steps total in my winder.  The problem is that code says the minimum tread depth in a winder is 6".  Softplan has it as 3" and when I looked it up in the book it says that this is not changeable.  How do I get it to be 6" while still keeping the stairs as an integral part (not exploded or in pieces)?

 

[Thomas Davis]

Winder treads on a switch back stair don't really work well, in Softplan or in the field, due to the code requirements.

I had a major issue with one on a project and will never design one again.

 

If you can avoid the winders, I would at all costs. The framers (and the building inspector) will be happy with you.
 

If you have to use this type of stairs because of space requirements (as I did), then I would draw the winders in manually.

[Sam Morgan]

I agree with Tommy...avoid winders at all costs.  I hated building them when I was a builder/framer, and I hated arguing the code requirements with the inspector.  Half of them didn't understand what the code was really saying and the other half wanted them done another way regardless of the code.  (Don't even get me started on using an autovent for a kitchen sink in an island!!!)

[Tom Rogers]

I prefer not to use them either.  This is not by preference that I need them but by necessity. 

[Keith Almond]

Change to stair radius to 48" with a 42" stair

[Tom Rogers]

That works.  Thanks Keith.  Not sure the philosophy behind that but that will give me something to learn. :-)

[Tom Rogers]

Okay, one last quick question as I am always confused on the proper way.  When you install the stairs, you set them flush to your wall since it is drawn with drywall but dimensions out as 3-1/2" (using typical partition 3.5" wall) or do you offset the stairs to allow drywall?  or do I make the stairs 1" bigger so that if I put in 3'-7" stair width my finished stairs will end up being 3'-6"? 

[Steve and Carla Farnam]

When framing the stairs I will usually attach a 2x4 flat flush to the bottom and outside of the 

stair stringer. The 2x4 fastens to the vertical stair well wall allowing room for the sheetrock

and a 3/4" skirt board to slide beside the stringer without having to be notched around each tread.

As you stated Tom the framing would be 1" wider than the desired sheetrock to sheetrock finished size.

[Keith Almond]

We've always assumed a 1/2" gap to slide the drywall into, and the baseboard (if required) would fit on the stringer. So a 42" stair would fit in a 43" structural opening.

[Tom Rogers]

So if I intend to use a 42" stair than my walls would indeed be 43" apart?  That was what I was figuring and doing but for some reason had me wondering about it. 

[Keith Almond]

That's what we allow, but we are only designers ...

 

What they do on site may be something else again. It's uncountable the number of times we've been told our drawings don't work because they changed something elsewhere on site and screwed up dimensions.

[Tom Rogers]

True Keith but the line from what we draw and draw how they build is a fine line.  Not to start a debate between designers and builders but I think more communication is needed why before we even start to draw.