Jump to content


Photo

Move Opening against wall


  • Please log in to reply
16 replies to this topic

#1 Wesley Penner

Wesley Penner

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 17 posts
  • LocationRoxton Falls, Quebec, Canada

Posted 14 March 2015 - 08:36 AM

I knew this once, and I know that the answer is in the old splash forum, but for some reason I can't search...

 

How do you move an opening right into a corner? I set the jack stud count to 0 but I still am 2'' away from perpendicular wall.

 

Thanks

Wes

Attached Thumbnails

  • Opening.jpg


#2 Chris Stewart

Chris Stewart

    Advanced Member

  • Banned
  • PipPipPip
  • 238 posts
  • LocationTexas

Posted 14 March 2015 - 09:22 AM

there is a setting in the drawing options which sets this but you can cheat by temporarily adjusting the 5.5" wall out of the way the 


All comments are my opinion only and may or may not be correct
-Chris

#3 Wesley Penner

Wesley Penner

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 17 posts
  • LocationRoxton Falls, Quebec, Canada

Posted 14 March 2015 - 09:25 AM

For sure! Why not? If I had just thought a few seconds longer... Thanks



#4 Sam Morgan

Sam Morgan

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 475 posts

Posted 14 March 2015 - 10:00 AM

I always use "set distance between" and 0 for situations like that


  • Ron Globke likes this

#5 Keith Almond

Keith Almond

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,235 posts
  • LocationBrockville, Ontario, Canada

Posted 14 March 2015 - 10:46 AM

That's the way I would do it too Sam. I have between set as a keyboard shortcut on "B". It's got to be my most used command.


Keith

There are 10 types of people in this world ....... Those who understand binary, and those who don't.

Softplan user since version 5.5.2.5

www.homehardwarekingston.ca

#6 Keith Owens

Keith Owens

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 92 posts
  • LocationConnecticut

Posted 14 March 2015 - 04:57 PM

The set distance between works great - also, if you happen to have your doors dimensioned, you can always edit the dimension. If you want to be able to just move the door tight against the wall without having to set or edit a distance, than you should go into system options, or drawing options if you have already creating the drawing, and change "frame clearance" in dimension options - if you set it to a distance greater than the length of any wall you might use (like 30 or 40 feet), than you will be able to move any door tight to a wall.

 

For example: If you have a wall that is 10' long, and the frame clearance is set less than that, it will not work. That's why I suggest setting to a distance longer than any wall length you typically use. Then you will be able to move any door on the plan within tight tolerances.



#7 Wesley Penner

Wesley Penner

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 17 posts
  • LocationRoxton Falls, Quebec, Canada

Posted 14 March 2015 - 05:35 PM

Thanks Keith I like that solution. I will set up my system options that way, I think.



#8 Keith Almond

Keith Almond

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,235 posts
  • LocationBrockville, Ontario, Canada

Posted 14 March 2015 - 06:04 PM

Personally, I think that may be a mistake - You should want the program to warn you that you might be cutting the trim. It's not like the "distance between" command is difficult to use for those one off situations.


Keith

There are 10 types of people in this world ....... Those who understand binary, and those who don't.

Softplan user since version 5.5.2.5

www.homehardwarekingston.ca

#9 Keith Owens

Keith Owens

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 92 posts
  • LocationConnecticut

Posted 14 March 2015 - 06:43 PM

Personally, I think that may be a mistake - You should want the program to warn you that you might be cutting the trim. It's not like the "distance between" command is difficult to use for those one off situations.

 

I agree that the distance between might be the better solution for those who may only run into the clearance problem a couple times, but for those like myself who have that situation often, being able to move the opening tighter against a wall and saving keystrokes adds up to saving a lot of time.

 

A small closet with an outside corner is a perfect example - you have plenty of room for trim at the outside of the closet, but not necessarily on the inside, and the trimmer will just have to rip the casing.

 

Door Casing.jpg



#10 Keith Almond

Keith Almond

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,235 posts
  • LocationBrockville, Ontario, Canada

Posted 14 March 2015 - 07:30 PM

Well, I did say it was a personal thing. Whatever works and makes life easier is definitely the way to go. Typically our homes are generally so tight that a closet like that is has ripped casing on both sides. We just tell Softplan not to resize the opening!


Keith

There are 10 types of people in this world ....... Those who understand binary, and those who don't.

Softplan user since version 5.5.2.5

www.homehardwarekingston.ca

#11 Keith Owens

Keith Owens

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 92 posts
  • LocationConnecticut

Posted 15 March 2015 - 06:06 AM

Wes, I just wanted to make a correction - I mentioned system options in my first reply, but if your going to use that method you should only change it in drawing options after you've inserted your doors. If you try to insert a door after this change is made, it will insert based on that clearance, and will be outside the wall you are trying to put it in.

 

Keith Almond, any situation that has the clearances tight on both side is going to prompt a dialog box that asks you to resize the opening - however in the example I attached, you can insert a 2' door between two 2x4 walls at 3' center to center without that dialog being prompted. I wanted to move it closer to the outside corner due to the casing to casing clearance of the adjacent cased opening.

 

Lately I've been drawing mostly apartments with a lot of doors with tight clearances in one drawing - not being able to move the opening wherever I want is just one of those things that's annoying to me.



#12 Rod Leger

Rod Leger

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 31 posts

Posted 15 March 2015 - 06:32 AM

Wes,

 

1. Reducing jacks to 0 (zero) will make no difference as they support the header.

2. You can set the initial offset distance of an opening in System Options

See image

Personally, I would suggest using a smaller casing of the same profile for the inside as in the closet issue.

As far as a door up against the wall, you will still need to trim it with something to hide th gap of the jamb and the drywall.

Unless of course, you have no jamb at that side.

 

Personal tastes.

 

 

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • SoftPlan Frame Clearance.JPG

Rod

 

Softplan 12 - 2012

Softlist

Review

 

Windows 7 Ultimate

I7 2600K

16GB Ram

2- 23" monitors

 

 

 


#13 Keith Owens

Keith Owens

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 92 posts
  • LocationConnecticut

Posted 15 March 2015 - 08:28 AM

When this feature was introduced in v2012, I know they described it as being able to fit the casing properly, and it would warn you if the opening wouldn't fit. However, I think when they did the programming, they just used 3" (the distance of a stud and jack) to set the limit. In the attached example, I have the casing set to 2.5", the frame clearance set to 2.5", and I can't move the door any closer to the wall. Notice that that the door on the right, I have 1/2" between the edge of the casing and the wall. Notice that the door on the left,  I have 3.5" trim, and it shows the trim overlapping into the wall.

 

This makes sense because this is typically how it would be framed, 1 stud and 1 jack. I typically use 3 1/2"casing, so I use 2 studs and 1 jack. Doesn't seem like they gave any consideration for drywall.

 



#14 Keith Almond

Keith Almond

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,235 posts
  • LocationBrockville, Ontario, Canada

Posted 15 March 2015 - 09:04 AM

The casing is nailed to the door jamb, not the framed opening - which is how Softplan calculates it. I sometimes think that Softplan's development team should spend some time with a construction company, and see how things really get built.

 

One of my main issues is Softplan shows heel heights to 1/1000" of an inch, and calculates top to fascia distance, but does it completely wrong, because for some reason they think that the top of the sheathing is level with the top of the fascia.


Keith

There are 10 types of people in this world ....... Those who understand binary, and those who don't.

Softplan user since version 5.5.2.5

www.homehardwarekingston.ca

#15 Rod Leger

Rod Leger

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 31 posts

Posted 15 March 2015 - 10:07 AM

Softplan does not give us the option for editing the casing reveal on jambs either.

 

By default, the casing inside edge is at the same plane as the outside (jack stud side) jamb plane.

 

In other words, the casing is not fastened to the jamb at all.

It is butted to the jamb.

 

We used to be able to move a door closer once initially placed.


Rod

 

Softplan 12 - 2012

Softlist

Review

 

Windows 7 Ultimate

I7 2600K

16GB Ram

2- 23" monitors

 

 

 


#16 Keith Owens

Keith Owens

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 92 posts
  • LocationConnecticut

Posted 15 March 2015 - 10:40 AM

The casing is nailed to the door jamb, not the framed opening - which is how Softplan calculates it. I sometimes think that Softplan's development team should spend some time with a construction company, and see how things really get built.

 

One of my main issues is Softplan shows heel heights to 1/1000" of an inch, and calculates top to fascia distance, but does it completely wrong, because for some reason they think that the top of the sheathing is level with the top of the fascia.

 

Keith, I agree with you that they should have an abundance of field knowledge (I think all designers should) - however, I think they got this one right for the most part. The overall opening is the rough opening, 2" bigger than the specified door (for your typical pre-hung doors), and the edge of the rough opening can only be moved 3" (a stud and jack) away from an intersecting wall. This makes sense, I just think we should have the option to turn off the feature of limiting how close it can be moved.

 

I also agree with you on the fascia - I always move the fascia and soffit down in my sections so it looks like it's supposed to.

 

As far as the heel heights, maybe a lot of designer don't need 1/16" accuracy. I know in Mitek's software for designing trusses, distances are given to the sixteenth. I know when I come up with 5-11/16" pitch for a roof, they come up with the same. 1/16" in height makes a big difference over 30' of run. 1/16" = .0625, so I guess I need that 4th decimal place out.

 

I'm just giving examples for anyone who reads these post to think about.

 

Cheers!



#17 Wesley Penner

Wesley Penner

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 17 posts
  • LocationRoxton Falls, Quebec, Canada

Posted 16 March 2015 - 04:53 AM

Thanks again for all the swift reposnses. I found out again that this is a great place to ask questions.

 

I definitely agree as well on the heel height/sheathing/fascia issue as well, but perhap we can not have a program that is perfect for everybody. AutoCad is much more configurable yet than SP, the way I understand. But then, I am not willing for the learning curve of AutoCad either.

 

Thanks

Wes






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users