Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Brick Veneer


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 Paul Tacy

Paul Tacy

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 42 posts
  • LocationWestern Mass.

Posted 14 November 2015 - 03:19 PM

I've been using SP 2014 for about a year now - first time ever with any cad program.  I'm feeling quite good about my accomplishments so far.

My problem now is I've been hired to draw a brick veneer home, which is completely new to me.  I've been in construction all my life, drawn plans on the board for over 35 years, but never done a brick home.  We just don't have very many of them here (Western Mass.)

 

My concern is mostly how the veneer typically sits on the foundation (wood frame 2x6 house, 2 stories).  The house will have a full basement, and the owner wants 4" of polyiso insulation, though he hasn't said how he wishes to accomplish this.  Is this best done with a brick shelf in a 12" concrete wall, sit the brick on a 10" (or 12") wall and step back the framing......??  I'd love to hear how you do it.  Drawings would be great!

 

One concern I have is the wall definition for a standard 2x6 brick wall shows the brick as non-bearing.  How does this work when we stack the floors?

 

I'm sure this sounds simple to those of you who do it all the time, but I'm very confused.

 

Paul



#2 Keith Almond

Keith Almond

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 5,092 posts
  • LocationBrockville, Ontario, Canada

Posted 14 November 2015 - 04:53 PM

Have a look at the CANADIAN WOOD FRAME HOUSE CONSTRUCTION Guide HERE. It's freely available, and it has some nice typical details. Basically you're right, You have a 10" or 12" poured concrete wall (depending on your insulation requirements), and the brick veneer sits on 3½" of it. Then a 1" air space and then your standard framing.

 

2015.11.14_17h48m42s_001.png

 

This is the detail on page 159. The rigid insulation may be omitted in front of the sheathing, depending on the value of your wall insulation. In Ontario we typically omit the rigid insulation, but use 2" x 6" studs with R22 minimum insulation.

 

As you state, the brick is NON-BEARING ... All the load is carried through the wood frame.


Keith

There are 10 types of people in this world ....... Those who understand binary, and those who don't.

Softplan user since version 5.5.2.5

www.homehardwarekingston.ca

#3 Steve Haarmann

Steve Haarmann

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 643 posts

Posted 14 November 2015 - 05:36 PM

If the grade is sloped then the concrete wall is stepped with the brick ledge below where the finished grade level will be located.

Keith's section is very good and I would recommend providing a detail like this for the contractor.

If there is very little brick in your area then there are probably very few contractors that know how to properly install it.

Brick is porous and the flashing and weep tubes or weep slots is VERY important.

Do NOT rely on Tyvek or other sheathing waterproofing to be effective.

You must provide a way for water to get back to the exterior of the brick.

Google "brick rainscreen" and you will find some good details and images.



#4 randolph cohn

randolph cohn

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 869 posts
  • Locationmarin county - california

Posted 14 November 2015 - 06:16 PM

also bring up "symbol" (can get it by double right clicking on your mouse)

and left click on the symbol icon which is a toilet

 

than type in "brick"  in the search box at the bottom left and any symbol

with the word brick in it will appear > left click on one of the symbols.


randy

v10 to future 2016+ ;)


#5 James Quesenberry

James Quesenberry

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 126 posts
  • LocationSouth West Virginia

Posted 14 November 2015 - 08:56 PM

Hey Paul,

 

The thing that I would add to Steve Haarmann's comment is that as the ledge steps down your foundation wall reinforcing requirements are going to change because the wall is no longer a 12" or 10" wide wall it ends up an 8" or 6" wall.



#6 Paul Tacy

Paul Tacy

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 42 posts
  • LocationWestern Mass.

Posted 16 November 2015 - 02:50 PM

Thanks to all for replying!  I figured it would be as Keith described, just never done it. 

Reinforcing the walls is covered - not a big deal around here because of our soil and lack of seismic requirements for one and two family.

 

Now, if the owner gets back to me about how he'd like to add 4" of foam to the foundation...  Putting it inside OR outside would cause all types of expense and problems.  As far as I know, he's intending an unfinished basement, so I'd just put R30 in the first floor framing.

 

I have a few ideas how the insulation could be added to the exterior, but I'd love to hear from anyone.

 

Paul



#7 Yvon Gonthier

Yvon Gonthier

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,288 posts
  • LocationOttawa

Posted 16 November 2015 - 03:39 PM

Your insulation is fairly thick so if installed on the exterior, you could use a steel angle bolted to your foundation wall to support the brick. If you have walls that are in siding, you can cantilever the joists over the insulation.






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users