6 replies to this topic

[DAN EVERS]

In system options or another place in the program, is there any way to set basement beams offset default to be 1 1/2" off the foundation wall (accommodating for the sill plate)? Also when using a beam in the layout is there a box that I can check so the beam information is displayed on the layout or do I have to do that manually with a speed note/text?

[Keith Almond]

You cannot set a default height for the beam.

 

For anyone who doesn't know beams and walls have different behaviour depending on where you draw them:

 

Beams - If you draw them in an open space, the start with the bottom at zero. If you draw them from a wall, they are drawn with the top the same height as the wall. Except steel beams. Steel beams seem to always be the same height as the wall ... I have no idea how that's set up or even whether we can control it - it's probably hard coded into the steel beam definition.

 

Walls - if you draw them in an open space, they are drawn at the height they are defined. If you draw them from a wall they inherit the same height as the walls they are drawn from.

 

Although that doesn't help with your 1½" offset requirement. NOTE: Unless you use reference circles, you will find that lifting the beam 1½" separates the 2 plans in the model, as the upper floor is set at the highest point of the lower floor, which would be the top of the beam.

 

You cannot auto display the beam information, but if you right click the beam and go to LABEL, Then click next to the beam, you get a pre-constructed text note that you can either use as is, or edit to show whatever you want. Although to be brutally honest (in my opinion) the label note is never what you want to show. It wants to give too much information, and is almost useless as it stands - A speed note tailored to suit your requirements may be easier and quicker.

 

Note to Softplan ... (and I will send this as a suggestion too): Every item that can display a label, should be editable so that the end user can customise the note to display whatever text they deem suitable. Where items are user-defined or created, the label definition should be part of the item creation process.

[Mike Feinstein]

Curious as to why you would want to offset the beam from the foundation wall. As a framer, I run sill plates on the beam...which means I want my beam top flush with foundation top.

[Keith Almond]

... I run sill plates on the beam...which means I want my beam top flush with foundation top.

 

That's how we construct ours too, with the plate shot-fired to the beam.

[Sam Morgan]

As a builder and framer, I did things exactly as the original poster....beams were always flush mounted to joists with hangers.  Thats a standard note on my plans now so we don't end up with huge beams below the floor in the basements.  Its a pain for the HVAC guy....but we always find a way to make it work.  

[Yvon Gonthier]

We also put a plate on top of the beam (we use engineered 2" x 6" which reduces squeaks) but I know some will a 2' x 4" on each side of the beam instead (seems as this must produce more squeaks and vibration?).

 

I draw my foundation wall with the 2" x 4" interior wall integrated with it. Originally, I use to draw 2 separate walls but I don't like that for the corners and the chance that the distance between both doesn't remain constant. My interior wall is 1 1/2" higher than the concrete wall so it shows up properly. With this option, you have to use the reference circle. The beam this way lines up with the top of the sill plates. This would work for you. I have a steel beam with the 2" x 6" plate attached to it so the plate lines up with the sill plate.

 

The draw back is getting use to the overall height of the foundation walls with and without an integrated interior wall which differs by 1 1/2" to have the same concrete wall height and the reference line for the top of foundation which has to be adjusted when you generate the elevations.

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[Mike Feinstein]

In special situations I have "flushed" joists to the beam. But in my experience, it not only makes life fun for mechanicals, it adds time and cost to the framing...having to hang joists from the beam. It can become quite logistical trying to make everything work. We've even had a welder burn holes through the web of the beam and weld sleeves on to pass plumbing through. I can count on one hand the number of times we've done this in my 30 years of building. I've always said there are a 100 ways to skin a cat...and they're all correct...you just have to find which way works for you and your given situation.